They say familiarity breeds contempt, but having lived in the Chilterns for my entire life, I'm still in awe of the beauty and history all around in this small area of England. A few years ago I made it my mission to visit every town, village and hamlet in the area (stopping frequently to explore the countryside in between as well) so it's fair to say I know the Chilterns better than most! Here I have summarised my top 10 places I discovered (although it was difficult to choose just 10!)
1. Hambleden Valley
Leading northwards from the River Thames, this rolling green valley encloses four of the most picturesque villages in the Chilterns, if not in England: Turville, Fingest, Skirmett and Hambleden. Each village has its own unique character and the first 3 are within a short walk of each other, in fact it's well worth doing the 4 mile circular walk as there are stunning views along the way.
Turville was famously the location of 'Dibley' in the much-loved BBC Sitcom 'The Vicar of Dibley' and still draws fans to admire the pretty brick cottages grouped around the church and small village green. The village is overlooked by a windmill perched on the hill above, which was used in the film 'Chitty Chitty Bang Bang'.
Fingest has an unusual medieval Church with a double saddleback roof on the tower, but the village is best viewed from the hill above, where you can look down on the tiled roofs clustered in the valley below. Skirmett is a much smaller village but has some quirky old cottages with traditional flower-filled gardens.
Further down the valley, Hambleden is another popular location for filming, especially for episodes of Midsomer Murders. It was also the birthplace of Lord Cardigan (of Charge of the Light Brigade fame) and has a village shop and a grand 14th century parish church.
2. Ashridge Estate
Undoubtedly some of the finest Chilterns countryside is to be found within the National Trust's 5000 acre Ashridge estate. The ancient beech woodlands are awash with bluebells in spring and glow yellow and orange as the leaves change in the autumn. The northern end of the estate consists of several high chalk hills, culminating in Ivinghoe Beacon, which offers spectacular 360-degree views and is also the start of the Ridgeway National Trail. The surrounding chalk grassland is a colourful tapestry of wildflowers in the summer which buzzes with insects. The Bridgewater monument near the car park is worth climbing (small entry fee) for the views over the surrounding countryside. The vast Ashridge House was built in the 19th century on the site of a Tudor royal palace. Although not often open to the public, the grand architecture can still be admired from the outside.
3. West Wycombe
West Wycombe must be one of the most eccentric villages in England, much of it shaped by it's former owner Sir Francis Dashwood (1708-1781). He rebuilt St. Lawrence Church in the Italianate style, finishing it off with an 8ft diameter golden ball on top of the tower, a notable landmark that can be seen for miles around as it it perched on top of the hill above the village. West Wycombe Park is still the home of his descendants, although now owned by the National Trust and it is open to the public for a fee. The beautifully landscaped grounds include several follies and temples and a tranquil lake which is another popular filming location. Dug into the hill above the village are Hellfire Caves, excavated by Dashwood to produce chalk for the local roads and employment at a time of agricultural depression, and these are also open to the public for a fee.
However, the main attraction of West Wycombe is the village itself with it's well-preserved high street, much of it dating from the medieval period, and now home to independent shops and cafes. There are also stunning views to be had from walking up the hill to the church and the Dashwood family's Mausoleum.
4. Sharpenhoe Clappers & Barton Hills
The far northern part of the Chilterns, separated from the rest by the urban sprawl of Luton and Dunstable, is little-known and much less-visited. One hill in particular is thrust out into the plain below, like a vast upturned ship. Sharpenhoe Clappers is unusual as the sides of the hill are grazed smooth by sheep while the flat top is crowned by a majestic beech wood. The Chilterns are famous for their beech woods but this one in particular always takes my breath away. The tall elegant tree trunks frame the views of the surrounding rolling countryside, while underneath is a lush carpet of grass and moss. This lends the woodland an airy and light atmosphere which I have not experienced anywhere else. Along one edge is a row of particularly ancient beeches, their lower boughs almost horizontal.
Across the A6 from Sharpenhoe Clappers, the Barton Hills Nature Reserve is another remarkable place. The steep, but not particularly high, chalk hills are best approached from Barton-le-Clay. as you walk along the footpath you may notice a tiny stream, more of a trickle, in the woods to the right. If you follow it right up the valley, you find yourself in a small cave where you can actually see the water trickling out of the chalk, to the best of my knowledge the only accessible spring in the Chilterns. The valley is enclosed by steep wildflower-rich chalk grassland on all sides, which I recommend climbing up for the stunning views north over the plain.
5. Little Missenden
Few people realise that the England is home to one of the world's rarest habitats: the chalk stream. 85% of all chalk streams in the world are in England and there are 7 in the Chilterns. They are home to a large range of plants and animals and the water is crystal clear from percolating through layers of chalk from deep underground. One of the best places to see this rare ecosystem is in the Misbourne Valley near Little Missenden. Walk eastwards from the village along the valley and you'll soon find yourself in idyllic meadows, serenaded by birdsong in the spring and bursting with wildflowers in the summer. The river is really more of a small stream but it is full of life- look out fleeting glimpses of brown trout as they jump for flies, striped dragonflies resting on reeds at the river's edge and graceful swans gliding by. The river opens out into an artificial lake at Shardeloes which is home to a multitude of waterfowl. Little Missenden village is also one of the prettiest in the Chilterns and the parish church contains some rare medieval wall paintings, which have only recently been uncovered.
6. Henley-on-Thames
This beautiful riverside town is world-famous for the Royal Regatta, held every July, but there is so much more to it than this. Henley has managed to retain it's air of Edwardian elegance like no other town along the Thames. On a warm summer's day traditional wooden boats chug by, skippered by gentlemen in striped blazers, rowing boats rapidly glide across the water like pond skaters and families relax on the riverbank eating picnics from wicker hampers, throwing scraps to the scores of swans and ducks noisily jostling for position. The town's Georgian streets are bustling with shoppers and visitors, with lots of independent cafes and shops to visit. Stray further along the river to the north and the grand riverside houses soon give way to some of the most beautiful scenery along the Thames. The folly on Temple Island is reflected in the tranquil water, while the river snakes its way onwards, carving its way between the wooded Chiltern Hills with green meadows on each side.
7. Beacon Hill, Ellesborough
Although not the highest hill in the Chilterns, the view from Beacon Hill is, in my opinion, the most spectacular. Neighbouring Coombe Hill almost always has a crowd at the summit, but whenever I've visited Beacon Hill I've had the place to myself which lends it a more timeless, wild atmosphere. The walk up from Ellesborough is not for the faint-hearted and is so steep that I wonder if it would be easier to crawl the last part, but it is worthwhile for the views from the top! Behind you is a bird's-eye view of Ellesborough Church on its mound, a row of thatched cottages clinging to the side. The far end of the hill is fenced off as it overlooks Chequers, the Prime Minister's country retreat.
To the south the ground plunges down into a steep wooded ravine. This is the largest native box wood in Britain and has been designated a Site of Special Scientific Interest. Box trees are relatively small and dense so it is always dark and atmospheric as you walk through, ducking under the twisted branches. Just don't stray off the footpath as there is a near-vertical drop on one side!
8. Amersham Old Town
Amersham is a town of two parts: the 20th century new tow was built up around the railway station on the hill, while the old town is situated in the valley along the river Misbourne. The old town is one of the prettiest market towns in the Chilterns, with many of the brick and timber buildings dating back to the 1400s. The town has many independent retailers, cafes, restaurants and some very old pubs, some of them dating back to when Amersham would have been the first stop for horse-drawn coaches travelling from London to Birmingham and beyond.
Next to the church are the Memorial Gardens where there are always beautiful floral displays, which has helped Amersham win many RHS Britain in Bloom awards. High on the hill above the
town is the Martyrs Memorial, erected in memory of those who were burned to death in the 16th century for their protestant beliefs. From up here you can see the best view of the town: a cluster of red roofs nestled in the valley bottom, dominated by the stone church tower and surrounded by the rolling hills.
9. Radnage Valley
To the west of West Wycombe is one of the most rural and unspoilt valleys in the Chilterns. The village of Radnage is really a collection of tiny hamlets scattered throughout the valley, with the main settlement, known as The City, on one side and the parish Church almost isolated on the other side towards Bledlow Ridge. Each hamlet, bearing names such as Green End, Town End and Bennet End is connected by narrow and twisty lanes which are usually devoid of traffic. The best way to enter the valley is via Bottom Road from West Wycombe and this is, in my opinion, the most spectacular road in the Chilterns. Very narrow all the way along, it begins by passing a few pretty timber-framed and farmhouses, passing through woodland, then it suddenly rises up steeply revealing stunning views up and down the valley, before it plunges back down towards Radnage. Due to the absence of large settlements or main roads, the valley is always peaceful and quiet, the only sounds being red kites whistling overhead, birds singing and the rustle of wind in the trees.
10. Ewelme
In the far south of the Chilterns, the hills are less dramatic, descending gently towards the Thames. In these undulating foothills is found the unspoilt village of Ewelme. The famed almshouses and school date back to the 15th century, and the school is the oldest state primary school building in continuous use. Both were built by the 1st Duke of Suffolk (1396-1450), who married Alice Chaucer, a granddaughter of the poet Geoffrey Chaucer. Alice's alabaster tomb inside St. Mary's Church is considered a particularly fine example of medieval craftsmanship. The author Jerome K. Jerome is also buried in the churchyard. The large tree-lined pond in the village is the source of Ewelme Brook, a small chalk stream that flows into the Thames near Benson. This stream feeds into some large watercress beds, which was a thriving industry here until 1988. Since closure, the beds are now a nature reserve.
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